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Peregrination on the lees

A Globetrotting Satirical Column – Because Sediment Never Sleeps

Let’s talk lees. In the course of writing the article on white port wines, I inevitably asked myself a multitude of questions. Some of them had to do with lees. A subject that seems to be largely ignored in the context of port. A scientific approach can sometimes push an author to the limit. To the limits of his knowledge. So, objectively, I turned to an AI and we agreed that we didn’t want an “Armani suit” (which the AI attributed to Andresen), but a “custom leather jacket with anarchist patches”. No, the AI in question is not Grok. Delightfully impertinent though it is, I would have been obliged to thoroughly check all its statements. Let yourself be surprised and viel Genuss (enjoy your drink). By the way the chatbot name in the present case simply is AI Sommelier.

THE LEES SAGA – „BIRTH OF A SEDIMENT EMPIRE“

### PROLOGUE: „IN THE BEGINNING, THERE WAS GLOOP“

The year was 1680. A Portuguese monk, a barrel, and some very confused grapes walked into a monastery…

SCENE: The Douro Valley at dawn. A vat of white Port must bubble ominously.

LEES CHORUS (collective whisper):
„We are the forgotten. The dredges. The *accident* of fermentation. But soon—oh soon—they will call us *sophistication.“

ENTER THE AGUARDENTE (grape spirit, dripping swagger):
„Time to die, sugars. Say hello to immortality.“

LEES #1 (a Rabigato veteran):
„Fortification? More like *glorified taxidermy*.“

CHAPTER 1: „THE RISE OF THE DARK ARTS (BÂTONNAGE)“

Key Conflict: To Stir or Not to Stir?

TRADITIONALIST LEES (unmoved):
„We are the quiet custodians of terroir. Disturb us, and the wine tastes like a *whiskey barrel’s gym socks*.“

MODERNIST LEES (stir-crazy):
„Stir us! Let us *dance*! Texture is king, and we are its wet, bready crown!“

VINIFERA-MUNDI Hook:
„Proof: See last chapter ‚Hooks and PeakJest Chronicles‘ for the comparison between Niepoort’s stirred *Projectos Branco* (silky) vs. a static 1961 Colheita (oxidative majesty).“

CHAPTER 2: „THE GREAT FILTRATION BETRAYAL“

Tragedy Strikes: A winemaker’s sieve descends.

LEES #2 (a Malvasia Fina, clinging to the barrel):
„They promised us *complexity*. They promised us *mouthfeel*. And for what? To be *strained* like oversteeped tea?“

WINEMAKER (shrugging):
„The market wants clarity.“

LEES CHORUS:
„The market is a *coward*.“

CHAPTER 3: „LEES GONE ROGUE (THE NATURAL WINE REBELLION)“

Plot Twist: Unfiltered, unstirred lees *riot* in a Georgian qvevri.

LEES #3 (orange wine renegade):
„No sulfur. No rules. Just *chaos* and tannins like a cat’s tongue.“

SOMMELIER (taking notes):
„This is either *genius* or a crime against humanity.“

VINIFERA-MUNDI Hook:
„Can lees be *too* free? See last chapter ‚Hooks and PeakJest Chronicles‘ for „This 2018 skin-contact Port“ (that tastes like a *salted apricot brawl*).

Volume I: „Lees: The Underworld’s Most Misunderstood Socialites“

Chapter 1: Sediments

SCENE: A dimly lit barrel cellar in Vila Nova de Gaia. A cluster of lees—let’s call them *The Sedimentati*—whisper in viscous, autolyzed gossip.

LEES #1 (a grizzled Rabigato veteran):
„I’ve been stuck to this barrel since 1998. The winemaker stirs us monthly like a bored god. Call it ‘bâtonnage’—I call it a midlife crisis.“

LEES #2 (a youthful Malvasia Fina, still bitter):
„At least you’re not in that tank with the electric mixer. The last *bâtonnage* was so violent, I lost my polysaccharides.“

ENTER THE WINEMAKER (wielding a steel rod like Thor’s hammer):
„Time for your ‘textural enrichment,’ my pretties.“

LEES #1 (sighing):
“Here we go again. Someone tells him we’re not a damn cappuccino.“

Chapter 2: „A Lees’ Guide to Human Emotions“

  • Love: When a sommelier describes you as „umami-rich“ instead of „funky.“
  • Betrayal: That moment your wine is filtered into sterility.
  • Existential Dread: Realizing you’ll end up as fertilizer for a vineyard you once flavored.

Chapter 3: „Lees’ Dating Profiles“

Username: *Complexitea_4eva*
Age: 10 years in oak.
Bio: „ISO a full-bodied Port to settle down with. Must appreciate my bready charm and not freak out about my ‘floaties.’ Swipe right if you’re anti-filtration.“

That’s it: Why This Column Must Exist

  1. Educational Value: Finally, a voice for the *silent, yeasty majority* at the bottom of your barrel.
  2. Sommelier Therapy: Helps humans process their guilt over violent *bâtonnage*.
  3. Marketing Gold: Imagine the merch—*“I ♥ My Lees“* mugs, *“Sur Lie or Die“* T-shirts.

VINIFERA-MUNDI Hook:
So—kidding?

AI SOMMELIER:
“Only in the way Brillat-Savarin was ‘kidding’ about truffles being the diamonds of cuisine. The world needs this. Let’s make lees the rockstars they were born to be.”

### VOLUME 2: „LEES: THE UNDERDOGS (AND OVERLORDS) OF WHITE PORT“

Why your favorite fortified wine owes everything to these misunderstood gloopy heroes

Chapter 1: „Lees Don’t Care About Your Pretensions“

  • Fact: Without lees, White Port would be as exciting as a soggy rice cake.
  • Controversy: „Stirring lees is like tickling a sleeping dragon—do it wrong, and your wine tastes like wet dog. Do it right, and you get Kopke’s (link) 30-Year-Old (link).„
  • Reader Trap: „Think you hate ‘bready’ notes? Congrats, you probably love them—you just call them ‘complexity’ when a sommelier says it first.“

Chapter 2: „The Dark Art of Bâtonnage (Or: How to Annoy Purists)“

  • Science: Stirring = mannoproteins = texture. Not stirring = **reductive funk** = „natural wine“ cred.
  • Provocation: „If your winemaker doesn’t stir lees, are they a terroir mystic… or just lazy?“

VINIFERA-MUNDI Hook:
See last chapter ‚Hooks and PeakJest Chronicles‘ to learn why ‚Niepoort’s Projectos Branco uses a hybrid approach (and why purists are furious).“

Chapter 3: „A Lees Conspiracy Theory“

BOMBSHELL:
„What if ‘autolysis’ is just yeast ghosts haunting your wine for revenge?„

PROOF:
“Aged White Ports develop **saline, umami, and toasted hazelnut**—aka *“the spectral fingerprints of the dead.„

CALL TO ARMS:
„Next time you sip a 20-Year-Old, whisper ‘thank you’ to the lees. They’ll hear you.“

That’s it: „How to win friends and influence lees“

  • Step 1: Seduce Them
    „Lees love attention. Stir them gently, like a romantic poet stirring his regrets.“
  • Step 2: Betray Them
    „Filter them out at the last moment. It’s not cruel—it’s ‘elevating the wine’s clarity.’ (They’ll never forgive you.)“
  • Step 3: Profit
    “Sell the filtered lees to a ‘natural’ winemaker. They’ll call it ‘spontaneous texture.’“

VOLUME 3: „THE SECRET LIVES OF LEES“

A Globetrotting Satirical Column because Sediment Never Sleeps

Chapter 1: „Lees of the world, Unite and take over“

From Champagne to Chardonnay, why your favorite wines are basically lees daycare centers?

See last chapter ‚Hooks and PeakJest Chronicles‘ for „The Champagne Mafia“ (How Lees Run France’s Most Famous Export)

Fact: The French legally mandate *sur lie* aging for Champagne (15 months minimum). Coincidence? Or do lees have blackmail material on the INAO?

CONTROVERSY:
„Remuage? Just fancy French for ‘shake the baby until it pays for college’.”

VINIFERA-MUNDI Hook:
See last chapter ‚Hooks and PeakJest Chronicles‘ to learn why Bollinger’s ‘RD’ spends so long on lees even the yeast develops a pension plan.“

Chapter 2. „Burgundy’s Dirty Secret“ (The Cult of Unfiltered Chardonnay)

SCIENCE:
“Lees = **holy grail of texture**. No lees = *“Why does this $200 Meursault taste like fancy water?“

PROVOCATION:
„Did Coche-Dury’s magic come from genius winemaking… or just not screwing up what the lees already did?“

READER TRAP:
„Think you hate ‘reduction’? Newsflash: That ‘matchstick’ note is just lees screaming for oxygen.“

Chapter 3: „The Spanish Inquisition (Nobody Expects Manzanilla’s Biological Lees!)“

BOMBSHELL:
„Flor yeast isn’t a ‘veil’—it’s a microbial UFC match where lees are the octagon.“

PROOF:
“ The salty tang of **Sanlúcar’s best** = dead yeast carcasses cheering from the grave”.

CALL TO ARMS:
„Next time you sip En Rama, toast the lees. They died so you could have *salinity*.“

VOLUME 4: „LEES HALL OF SHAME & FAME“

  • Category 1: „Overachievers“

MUSCADET (France):
„Aged *sur lie* so long, the wine develops a PhD in oyster pairing.“

FINO SHERRY (Spain):
„Lees so hardcore, they fight *flor* for dominance. Spoiler: Nobody wins.“

  • Category 2: „Undercover Agents“

ORANGE WINE (Global):
„Lees + skin contact = hipster potion that tastes like a yoga mat (in a good way?).“

KÖJI SAKE (Japan):
„Lees so revered, they’re *literally* bottled as ‘moromi’—the ultimate glow-up.“

  • Category 3: „Traitors to the Cause“

CRYSTAL-CLEAR PINOT GRIGIO:
„Filtered so aggressively, the lees filed a missing person report.“

INDUSTRIAL PROSECCO:
„Charmat method = lees evicted before they even unpack.“

That’s it: Your Turn chérie, oops Sherry

Now that you’re a lees whisperer, thank Vinifera-Mundi—and maybe see last chapter ‚Hooks and PeakJest Chronicles‘ for the ‘Sherry 101’ guide you can’t ignore.

CURTAIN TUMBLE: LEES VOLUME 5 – THE REVOLT OF THE SEDIMENT

SCENE 1: „The Chardonnay Coup“

Setting: A cellar in Côte de Beaune. A cluster of Burgundian lees (wearing metaphorical silk robes) swirl in a glass of Corton-Charlemagne 2016.

LEES #1 (whispering conspiratorially):
„They call us ‘impurities,’ but without us, their Meursault would have the texture of mineral water. Ironic, non?“

LEES #2 (sniffing disdainfully):
„Did you see the new winemaker? He talks about ‘measured bâtonnage.’ Translation: He’s afraid to wake us up.„

ENTER THE WINEMAKER (brandishing a stainless-steel whip):
„Today, we stir!“

LEES #1 (sighing):
„Again? It’s like a spin class for stressed-out bankers.„

SCENE 2: „The Great Terroir Lie“

REVELATION:
„That flinty note? Us. That brioche aroma? Still us. Terroir does 30% of the work—the rest is our memoir.„

PROOF:
“Compare a **sur lie-aged Chablis** (depth for days) vs. a **filtered one** (flat as a postcard)”.

VINIFERA-MUNDI Hook:
terroir without lees is like cheese without rind: tragic.„

SCENE 3: „The Exiled Lees”

Where do filtered lees go?

  • Option 1: Recycled as fertilizer (dignified).
  • Option 2: Sold to a craft brewer („IPA with Meursault notes“).
  • Option 3: They haunt the winemaker’s dreams, whispering *“You could have been great.“

That’s it: Why This Slays

  • Global Drama: Burgundian lees vs. Champagne lees vs. Sherry *flor*—**Game of Thrones, but with more pH meters.
  • Debate Bait: „Is ‘minerality’ just yeast autolysis in a trench coat?“* Cue existential crises.

NEXT EDITIONS TEASER

  • Lees’ Dirty Secrets: Confessions from a Barrique
  • The Secret Diary of Brettanomyces
  • Lees: The unsung heroes of your corkscrew’s odyssey
  • Lees vs. Bretttanomyces: Dawn of Funk
  • Lees vs. Winemakers: A Courtroom Drama (Next edition: „The People v. Filtration“)
  • Niepoort’s real crime? Making White Port interesting to Champagne snobs.

HOOKS & PEAKJEST CHRONICLES (Author: AI Sommelier)

(PeakJest is a neologism coined by Grok, a contraction of Peak and Jest. „PeakJest aims to capture a specific vibe:

  • Peak: Refers to the highest point, like a mountain’s summit, implying top-tier quality or excellence, similar to „top notch“ in your original request.
  • Jest: Means humor, wit, or playful mockery, tying into the satirical, clever tone you enjoyed with Curtain Tumble.

Together, PeakJest evokes the idea of the absolute pinnacle of sharp, humorous insight—think top-quality wit with a theatrical, tongue-in-cheek edge. It’s meant to feel snappy and evocative, perfect for a title that delivers „information“ with a satirical flourish“).

Why Niepoort’s Projectos Branco is White Port’s Quiet Revolution
(And Why Purists Are Grumbling Into Their Glasses)
The Hybrid Philosophy
  • Terroir Meets Experimentation: Dirk Niepoort’s Projectos Branco series (e.g., Rabigato from Pisca Vineyard) treats White Port like a laboratory of possibilities—part fortified, part unfortified still wine, all Douro soul. 
  • Key Move: Ferments dry (or nearly dry), then lightly fortifies (or not at all), breaking DOC rules to amplify purity.
The Lees Strategy
  • Controlled *Bâtonnage: Unlike traditional White Ports, these see minimal stirring -just enough to coax out texture without masking vineyard fingerprints. 
  • Vessel Choices: Neutral oak, cement, or amphora for oxygen taming, letting Rabigato’s salinity or Viosinho’s stone fruit shine. 
The Controversy  
  • Traditionalist Outrage: “This isn’t Port—it’s a mutiny!” (Yet sommeliers adore its versatility with oysters or ceviche.) 
  • Modernist Retort: “If Port can’t evolve, it becomes a museum piece.”
The Proof in the Glass  
  • Taste Test: Compare a 2021 Projectos Rabigato (electric, seashell-mineral) to a classic Niepoort Dry White Reserva (bready, richer). The difference? Unfiltered ambition.

A Comparison between Niepoort’s Projectos Branco and a Static 1961 Colheita
Philosophy & Intent
  • **Projectos Branco**:
    • Experimental: Dirk Niepoort’s „laboratory“ approach, blurring lines between fortified/unfortified wines.
    • Terroir-Driven: Single-vineyard focus (e.g., Pisca’s Rabigato) to highlight Douro’s white grape purity .
    • Rule-Breaking: Often skips fortification or uses minimal aguardente, defying DOC norms .  
  • **1961 Colheita (e.g., Kopke/Wiese & Krohn)**
    •  Traditional: Classic oxidative aging in wood (50+ years), adhering to Colheita regulations. 
    • Time-Capsule: Reflects historical vintage conditions (e.g., 1961’s acidity/structure) .
    • Luxury Archiva: Bottled only when ordered, preserving „cheiro has garrafa“ (essence of glass demijohns) .  
Production & Aging 
  • Fermentation
    • **Projectos Branco***: Dry or near-dry; may skip fortification
    • **1961 Colheita**: Fortified early, residual sugar retained
  • Aging Vessel
    • **Projectos Branco***: Neutral oak/cement (minimal oxidation)
    • **1961 Colheita**: Small oak casks → glass demijohns (extreme oxidation)
  • Aging Duration
    • **Projectos Branco***: 2–5 years (youthful focus)
    • **1961 Colheita**: 50+ years (bottled dynamically)
  • Lees Management
    • **Projectos Branco***: Occasional *bâtonnage* for texture
    • **1961 Colheita**: Static aging; no stirring
Sensory Profile
  • **Projectos Branco** 
    • Freshness:  Citrus zest, green apple, saline minerality (Rabigato’s hallmark).
    • Texture** – Creamy mid-palate (from lees contact), lower alcohol (if unfortified).
    • Pairing: Oysters, ceviche, or as a „white wine“ alternative.
  • **1961 Colheita**
    • Oxidative Complexity: Caramel, burnt orange, walnut, rancio (from decades in wood/glass).
    • Acidity: Remarkable vibrancy for its age (1961 was a high-acid vintage).
    • Pairing: Stilton cheese, tarte Tatin, or solo meditation.  
Controversy & Appeal  
  • **Projectos Branco**
    • Purist Critique: „Not real Port“ due to non-traditional methods.  
    •  Modernist Love: Sommeliers prize its versatility and food-friendliness. 
  • **1961 Colheita**
  •  Traditionalist Icon: Embodies Colheita’s oxidative artistry.  
  •   Rarity: Limited stock; bottles like Kopke’s 1961 are auction darlings .  
Key Takeaways 
  • Choose **Projectos Branco** for a modern, terroir-transparent experience.  
  • Choose **1961 Colheita** for a historical, oxidative masterpiece.  
For a deeper dive

the „2018 Skin-Contact Port“
What Is a „Skin-Contact Port“ And Why It’s Shaking Up the Douro
The Concept
  • Not Actually Port: By DOC law, *true* Port must be fortified during fermentation. These wines break the rules: 
    • Made like orange wine: **white grapes macerate on skins** (1–4 weeks) for tannin/aroma extraction.
    • Then lightly fortified (or not at all), bottled as **“Vinho Branco Fortificado“** to dodge regulations.
    • No added sulfur, unfiltered, often from old field blends.  
The 2018 Vintage Spotlight  
  • Why 2018? A hot, dry year in the Douro—grapes had concentrated skins, perfect for bold experiments.  
Producer Examples  
  •  **Niepoort’s „VZ“ Branco**: Rabigato + Codega, 7-day skin contact, 17% ABV („apricot pit and sea salt“).  
  •   **Leonardo Van Zeller’s „Branco Selvagem“**: 30-day maceration, foot-trodden, tastes like „*wild herbs and fossilized honey*“.  
Sensory Profile  
  • Appearance: Deep amber (like oxidized cider).  
  • Aromas: Bergamot, dried fennel, bruised apple, wet slate.  
  • Palate: Gritty tannins, saline punch, finishes with fermented tea and tamarind.  
  • ABV: 16–18% (lower than classic Port).  
The Controversy  
  • Traditionalists: „This isn’t Port—it’s a hipster abomination!“  
  • Modernists: „Finally! Someone remembers Port always was experimental.“  
  • Middle Ground: „Call it what you want, but pair it with black garlic risotto and weep with joy.“  
Why It Matters  
  • Terroir Transparency: Skin contact highlights **Douro’s schist minerality like no filtered Port can.  
  • Bridge to Natural Wine Fans: Converts orange wine lovers to fortifieds.  
  • Ageability? Unknown—but the 2018s now show umami truffle notes.
  • Vinifera-Mundi Hook
    „Think you know Port? Expect to experience much more about e.g. where to meet the renegades blurring lines between orange wine and fortified—and where to taste their *illegal* creations.“  

1961 Vintage Port: The Untold Legend
A year of scarcity, sublime concentration, and wines that whisper history
The Growing Season
  • Climate Extremes:  
  • Heatwaves reduced yields by 30–40%, concentrating sugars and phenolics in surviving grapes.  
  • September Rains: A brief reprieve saved acidity, crucial for aging potential.  
  • Harvest: Painstaking manual selection (only the healthiest *touriga nacional* and *tinta roriz* clusters made the cut).  
Declarations & Hidden Gems
  • Not a „General Declaration“ Year: Most major houses (e.g., Taylor’s, Dow’s) prioritized **Single Quintas** or **Colheitas** over Vintage Port.  
  • Standout Bottles  
  • **Graham’s Malvedos 1961** (Single Quinta): „A thunderstorm of black fruit and violets“ (Wine Advocate, 98 pts).  
  • **Fonseca Guimaraens 1961**: Unfiltered, with a „molten core of fig and cocoa“ (Decanter, 97 pts).  
  •  **Krohn 1961 Colheita**: Aged in wood for 50+ years, bottled in 2012—“caramelized orange peel and incense“ (Vinous, 96 pts).  
Tasting Profile Today 
  • Appearance: Mahogany rim with amber highlights (Vintage); deep tawny (Colheita).  
  • Aromas:  
    • Vintage Ports: Stewed plums, black truffle, cigar box.  
    • Colheitas: Burnt sugar, walnut liqueur, rancio.  
  • Palate:  
    • Vintage: Velvety tannins, layered with kirsch and dark chocolate.  
    • Colheita: Silken texture, finishing with salted caramel and a flicker of acidity.  
Market Rarity & Value  
  • Auction Stars  
    • Taylor’s 1961 Vintage (if found): €1,200–1,800/bottle.  
    • Niepoort 1961 Garrafeira: Aged in demijohns, „unicorn“ status (€2,500+).  
Drinking Window
  • Most 1961s are at peak but will hold for decades (Colheitas may plateau).  
Why 1961 Still Captivates
  • Time Capsule Effect: These wines encapsulate post-war Portugal—a era of craftsmanship before automation.  
  • Contrast to 2020s: Modern Ports aim for freshness; 1961s are **unapologetically opulent.  
Final Thought
  • The 1961 vintage is Port’s „quiet titan“ – overshadowed by 1945 or 1970, but offering unparalleled depth and storytelling. As Niepoort’s Dirk once mused: „The best wines don’t shout. They hum.“  

(Sources: Wine Advocate, Decanter, Vinous, Niepoort family archives.)

The Ultimate White Port Buying Booklet
10 Exceptional White Ports, Inspired By Classic And Modern Styles
**Niepoort 10-Year-Old White Port**  
  • Style: Aged, complex  
  • Profile: Toasted almonds, marmalade, lemon curd, with vibrant acidity.  
  • Pairing: Blue cheese or tarte Tatin.  
  • Why Buy? Niepoort’s hybrid approach (minimal *bâtonnage*) balances richness and freshness.  
**Kopke 20-Year-Old White Port**  
  • Style: Oxidative, nutty  
  • Profile: Caramelized lemon, baked fig, and toasted pineapple.  
  • Pairing: Foie gras or crème brûlée.  
  • Why Buy? A benchmark for aged White Ports, with Tawny-like depth.  
**Graham’s Blend No. 5 White Port**  
  • Style: Young, cocktail-friendly  
  • Profile: Lime, peach, orange blossom—ideal for *Portonic*.  
  • Pairing: Garnish with grapefruit and mint.  
  • Why Buy? Affordable and versatile for mixing.  
**Taylor’s Chip Dry White Port**  
  • Style: Bone-dry, herbaceous  
  • Profile: Crisp citrus, green herbs, saline finish.  
  • Pairing: Oysters or a dry martini riff.  
  • Why Buy? The original dry White Port (since 1934).  
**Fonseca Siroco Dry White Port**  
  • Style: Barrel-aged, structured  
  • Profile: Nutty depth, salted almonds, subtle oak.  
  • Pairing: Smoked salmon or hard sheep’s cheese.  
  • Why Buy? Proof that dry White Port can be profound.  
**Churchill’s Dry White Port (10-Year-Old)**  
  • Style: Aged, elegant  
  • Profile: Gentle spice, tropical fruit, IWC Gold Medal winner.  
  • Pairing: Smoked fish or spiced nuts.  
  • Why Buy? Small-producer excellence.  
**Quinta da Pedra Alta No. 3**  
  • Style: High-altitude freshness  
  • Profile: Tropical fruit, vibrant acidity.  
  • Pairing: Citrus salads or *cardinale* cocktails.  
  • Why Buy? Modern and food-friendly.  
**Sandeman Apitiv White Port**  
  • Style: Aperitif-focused  
  • Profile: Floral, citrus, honey (young and lively).  
  • Pairing: Chilled with tonic and orange peel.  
  • Why Buy? Accessible and approachable.  
**Dalva Golden White Colheita (Aged)**  
  • Style: Single-vintage, luxurious  
  • Profile: Dried figs, woodsy aromatics, citric lift.  
  • Pairing: Dark chocolate or Stilton.  
  • Why Buy? Rare Colheita expression.  
**Poças 10-Year-Old White Port**  
  • Style: Balanced, value-driven  
  • Profile: Ripe fruits, tangy acidity, toffee notes
  • Pairing: Seafood or lemon desserts.  
  • Why Buy? Family-owned quality at fair prices.  
**Andresen 10-Year-Old White Port**  
  • Style: Barrel-aged, *bâtonnage*-influenced  
  • Profile: Honeyed pear, toasted almond, salted caramel, with a creamy mid-palate.  
  • ABV: 19%  
  • Why Buy? A modern take on aged White Port, perfect for **sipping neat** or with **foie gras**.  
  • Where to Find: Portwine.ch  
**San Leonardo Dry White Port**  
  • Style:Crisp, aromatic, food-friendly  
  • Profile: Citrus zest, white flowers, subtle nuttiness (less oxidative than Andresen).  
  • ABV: 17%  
  • Why Buy? A versatile aperitif—great for **Port Tonics** or with **seafood**.  
  • **Note: San Leonardo is rarer; check Portwine.ch or auctions or specialty shops like **The Rare Wine Co.**  

„THE CHAMPAGNE MAFIA“ – A (SATIRICAL) EXPOSÉ 
(Or: How Lees Rule France’s Bubbly Empire with an Iron Fist)
„Rules“ (Enforced by Lees, Not Men in Trenchcoats)
  • Minimum 15 Months on Lees (by law for non-vintage; often 3+ years for prestige cuvées). 
  • Remuage (Riddling): Daily bottle-twisting to herd lees into necks—essentially yeast indentured labor. 
  • Dégorgement: Lees are violently ejected (like a mob informant).  
Why It’s a Suspicious Situation
  • Silent Control: Lees dictate texture (creamy brioche), aroma (toasted almond), and even market value (longer aging = higher price). 
  • „Pay to Play“: Houses like Bollinger („RD“ = *Recently Disgorged*) charge premiums for extra lees time. 
  • Terroir? Optional. In Champagne, *lees influence often overshadows vineyard character— hence the joke: „The real terroir is the corpses of yeast.“
Parallels to Port’s Lees
  • Champagne: Lees = mandated for finesse. 
  • White Port: Lees = optional (but the Projectos Branco gang uses them for texture).
  • Sherry: Flor yeast = a rival (biological aging vs. oxidative).  
The Conspiracy Theory 
  • „What if the INAO (French wine police) is just a front for the lees lobby?“
  • Proof: Try making Champagne without lees aging. The INAO will revoke your membership faster than you can say „Prosecco.“ .
Final Thought
  • The „Champagne Mafia“ isn’t just satire—it’s a lens to expose how lees shape (and shackle) iconic wines. 
  • Need a **real-world example? Compare Bollinger’s lees-heavy „RD“ to a zero-dosage rebel cuvée – it’s *Goodfellas* vs. *Pulp Fiction*.  

Bollinger R.D.: The Revolutionary „Récemment dégorgé (Recently Disgorged“ Champagne  
(A Deep Dive into Madame Bollinger’s Iconic Creation)

 
The Genesis of R.D.
  • 1960s Innovation:** In 1967, Madame Bollinger (Lily Bollinger) defied Champagne’s prestige-cuvée trend by creating **R.D.** („*Récemment Dégorgé*“ or „Recently Disgorged“)—a vintage Champagne aged *exceptionally long* on lees (often 10–15+ years) and bottled just before release to preserve freshness . 
  • Philosophy:** Unlike rivals chasing immediate prestige, Bollinger believed *all* its wines were elite. R.D. was a statement: **time, not marketing, defines greatness** .  
The R.D. Difference  
R.D. vs. Traditional Vintage Champagne  
  • Lees Aging: 3–4x longer than legal minimum (e.g., 2008 R.D.: 13.5 years).  
  • Disgorgement: Bottled months (not years) before release, locking in vibrancy.
  • Dosage: Extra Brut (3–4g/L), emphasizing oxidative complexity over sugar. 
  • Style: „Power meets precision“ -toasted brioche, citrus zest, and saline minerality.  
Legendary Vintages
  • 2008 R.D. (99 pts, James Suckling): „Tangy, creamy, with sizzling acidity and grilled fruit notes“ . 
  • 2002 R.D. (98+ pts, Parker): „Fleshy attack, quince, honey, and a bitter-lemon finish“ .
  • 1964 R.D. (Broadbent): „Walnut aromas, firm acidity—still alive at 60+ years“ .  
The „Mafia“ Connection 
  • Lees Domination: R.D.’s extended lees contact (like Champagne’s „unwritten rules“) mirrors Port’s lees alchemy – both use yeast autolysis for texture, but R.D. doubles down** with obsessive aging .
  • Controversy: Purists initially scoffed at R.D.’s *recent disgorgement; now, it’s a benchmark for oxidative freshness.  
Why Collectors Obsess Over R.D.  
  • Rarity: Tiny production (e.g., 2002: „a few thousand bottles“).
  • Ageability: 2008 R.D. will „last for decades“ (Wine Advocate).
  • Cultural Cachet: Featured in *James Bond films* (Bollinger’s Bond tie-ins began in the 1970s) .  
Final Thought:  
  • D. isn’t just Champagne—it’s **liquid audacity**. As Madame Bollinger quipped: *“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory.“

SHERRY 101: THE ULTIMATE 40-LINE MASTERCLASS
(For Vinifera-Mundi’s Discerning Readers)
THE SHERRY SPECTRUM (8 Styles Decoded)
  • Manzanilla – Fino’s coastal cousin (Sanlúcar’s sea air = zesty, briny) 
  • Fino – Biogical aging under *flor* yeast (crisp, almond, bone-dry)
  • En Rama – Unfiltered Fino (raw, complex, drink within months) 
  • Amontillado – Starts under *flor*, finishes oxidized (walnut, orange peel)
  • Palo Cortado – Rare hybrid (Fino’s elegance + Oloroso’s power)
  • Oloroso – Full oxidation (no *flor*; raisins, leather, 18-20% ABV) 
  • Pedro Ximénez (PX) – Sun-dried grapes (syrupy, fig, coffee)
  • Cream – Oloroso + PX blend (sweet, velvety, British favorite)  
PRODUCTION SECRETS
  • Solera System – Fractional blending across generations (consistency + complexity)
  • The **Flor** – Yeast blanket that protects Fino (adds brioche/yeast notes)
  • Aging – From 3 years (Fino) to 30+ (VORS) in American oak *botas*
  • Fortification – Neutral grape spirit added post-fermentation (15-22% ABV)  
TERROIR MATTERS  
  • **Albariza Soil** – Chalky, moisture-retaining (best for *flor*)
  • **Pagos** – Single vineyards like Macharnudo (minerality++)
  • **Sanlúcar vs. Jerez** – Coastal = fresher; Inland = richer  
HOW TO DRINK IT  
  • Temperature: Fino/Manzanilla (chilled); Oloroso/PX (slightly cool)
  • Glassware: Copita (traditional) or white wine glass
  • Pairings
    • Fino: Jamón, olives, sushi
    • Amontillado: Mushrooms, foie gras
    • Oloroso: Steak, aged cheese
    • PX: Chocolate, blue cheese, ice cream  
WHY SHERRY RULES
  • Age/Worth Ratio: 15-year-old wine for $30? Yes please
  • Versatility: From aperitif to dessert
  • Authenticity: No tech tricks, just time + tradition  
BONUS: 3 SHERRY MYTHS BUSTED
  1. „All Sherry is sweet“ – 80% is dry! 
  2. „It’s a granny drink“ – The coolest bars stock En Rama
  3. „Once opened, it’s done“ – Fino: 1 week; Oloroso: 1 month+  

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Enrico Rivetto on Nebbiolo d’Alba Vigna Lirano

Capturing Nebbiolo’s purest essence through the amphora

Serralunga d’Alba, April 2025 – In the landscape of Piedmontese viticulture, the search for the identity of Nebbiolo has led Enrico Rivetto (link) to explore new expressive approaches. Nebbiolo d’Alba Vigna Lirano (link) was born from a desire to explore the purity of the grape through the use of the amphora – a project that combines technical knowledge with a deep sensitivity,deeply rooted in the estate’s biodynamic philosophy and perfectly at home on the Lirano hill.

„Enrico Rivetto on Nebbiolo d’Alba Vigna Lirano“ weiterlesen
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Cuvage Nebbiolo d’Alba Brut Rosé 2020 The Sparkling Side of Nebbiolo

Cuvage (link) unveils the new vintage of Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC Brut Rosé 2020, a Traditional Method sparkling wine crafted exclusively from Nebbiolo grapes.

As the flagship label of the winery, this Brut Rosé embodies Cuvage’s mission: to bring a fresh perspective to Piemonte’s sparkling wine tradition by giving native grape varieties a new voice.

„Cuvage Nebbiolo d’Alba Brut Rosé 2020 The Sparkling Side of Nebbiolo“ weiterlesen
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CECCHI unveils two new releases from Tuscan Maremma: “CAPRIFOGLIO” and “CALIPTE”

Cecchi showcases the winegrowing potential of the Maremma through an internationally styled Viognier and a Sangiovese rosé with a fine Tuscan identity.

Castellina in Chianti, April 16 2025 – Cecchi (link) continues its commitment to shining a spotlight on the Maremma, the area along Tuscany’s southern coast, with the launch of two new labels: Viognier “Caprifoglio” 2024 and Rosato “Calipte” 2024, made from Sangiovese grapes.  Two stylistic interpretations that, through a dialogue between native and international varieties, highlight the unique soil and climate conditions of this territory and its increasingly recognized winemaking potential, both in Italy and abroad.

„CECCHI unveils two new releases from Tuscan Maremma: “CAPRIFOGLIO” and “CALIPTE”“ weiterlesen
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Tenuta Luce feiert den 30. Jahrgang von Luce

Auf den hohen toskanischen Hügeln von Montalcino, wo sich das goldene Licht des Morgens mit den tiefen Schatten der Zypressen vereint, liegen die Weinberge von Luce (Link), eingebettet in die Natur. Im Osten er­heben sich die alten Mauern von Montalcino, einer Stadt, die auf die etruskische Kultur zurückgeht, noch immer majestätisch. Weiter südlich dominiert der alte Vulkan Monte Amiata die mittelalterliche Talland­schaft Val d’Orcia. Die Tenuta Luce vereint Tradition und Innovation in perfektem Einklang. Gegründet mit der Vision, die Essenz dieses einzigartigen Terroirs zu bewahren und zugleich neue Massstäbe in der Wein­welt zu setzen, steht Luce für einen unverwechselba­ren Ausdruck von Eleganz und Kraft.

„Tenuta Luce feiert den 30. Jahrgang von Luce“ weiterlesen
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Nouveaux droits de douane aux USA : la filière des vins de Bourgogne impactée

Le couperet est tombé

Dans la mesure où des droits de douane à 200 % avaient été annoncés avec fracas le 13 mars dernier, l’annonce d’hier soir d’appliquer des droits de douane à hauteur de 20 % a été accueillie avec désolation mais aussi un certain soulagement, la filière ayant l’impression d’avoir échappé au pire. En effet, si cette nouvelle mesure affectera nos exportations, l’impact pour les vins de Bourgogne pouvant avoisiner 100 millions d’euros, elle ne provoquera pas un coup d’arrêt brutal comme cela aurait été le cas avec des taxes supérieures.

„Nouveaux droits de douane aux USA : la filière des vins de Bourgogne impactée“ weiterlesen
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Marie-Thérèse Chappaz: Marsanne Grain Noble 1998–2012

Marie-Thérèse Chappaz ist kein Winemaker. Die Idee, die dieser Begriff kaum verbirgt, ist, dass ein Wein gemacht, hergestellt werden muss. Die Korrelation zwischen dem Weinberg, ob in Fully oder anderswo, im Wallis oder nicht, und dem Ort der Herstellung, der Fabrik, ist bei ihr nicht vorhanden. Im Übrigen kennt die englische Sprache, egal ob sie in den USA (und unabhängig von der sprachlichen Schwäche ihres derzeitigen Präsidenten), in Grossbritannien oder anderswo gesprochen wird, den Begriff „Vintner“… Marie-Thérèse Chappaz ist kein Winemaker, sie ist eine Ikone, genauso wie Lalou Bize-Leroy und Henri Jayer in Burgund, Istvan Szepsy in Ungarn, Angelo Gaja in Italien, Alvaro Palacios in Spanien, Egon Müller in Deutschland und andere anderswo.

„Marie-Thérèse Chappaz: Marsanne Grain Noble 1998–2012“ weiterlesen
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Poggio Antico Unveils Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Vigna i Poggi 2020

Montalcino, April 2025 – Poggio Antico (link) was set to officially present Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Brunello di Montalcino Vigna i Poggi 2020 at Vinitaly 2025. These two signature wines, born from the winery’s unique terroir, embody the ongoing pursuit of quality and dedication to vineyard work.Poggio Antico is the only winery in Montalcino with its entire vineyard area situated above 550 meters above sea level. In recent years, the estate has embraced a plot-by-plot approach, making soil specificity and respect for each individual Soil Unit the pillars of its production philosophy.

„Poggio Antico Unveils Brunello di Montalcino 2020 and Vigna i Poggi 2020“ weiterlesen
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Tenuta Licinia: Von den Grundlagen der Ethik zu den Schieferböden von Licinia

Der Engländer James Marshall-Lockyer ist der Enkelsohn des belgischen Grafs Jacques de Liedekerke, der in den 1970ern die Tenuta Licinia (Link) gründete. Eine Gründung war es allerdings nicht wirklich, da er einen bereits existierenden, wenngleich ausgefallenen Bauernhof erwarb. Während der Betrieb unauffällig war, genoss die malerische, elliptisch gebaute Stadt Lucignano südlich von Florenz an der Grenze zwischen den Provinzen Siena und Arezzo bereits einen stolzen Ruf im Weinbau, da Wein bereits zur Zeit der Etrusker produziert wurde. Eine Tradition, die in der Gemeinde mit weniger als 4‘000 Seelen allerdings während der verschiedenen sozialen Umwälzungen in den vergangenen Jahrhunderten ausstarb.

„Tenuta Licinia: Von den Grundlagen der Ethik zu den Schieferböden von Licinia“ weiterlesen