In our first report, Sake: Beyond the Rice Wine (link), we embarked on a journey into the heart of Japanese craftsmanship. We explored the soul of Sake, met the masters, and uncovered the spiritual and philosophical depths that make it a truly metaphysical beverage.
Now, it is time to move from theory to practice. This guide is your hands-on manual. Think of it as your trusted companion for taking the first—and next—steps into the vibrant world of Sake. Our goal is simple: to equip you with the confidence to taste, select, and appreciate Sake with the same discernment you apply to wine.
We will begin by demystifying the tasting process with a simple, effective method. Then, we will outline a strategic approach to building your palate. Finally, we will provide essential tips on gear, service, and shopping. The report will culminate in a curated tasting journey, where we will apply all these principles to evaluate ten distinct Sakes.
Let’s turn knowledge into experience.
A Heartfelt Thank You
Our deepest gratitude goes to Yoshiko Ueno-Müller (link), Sake Samurai, whose profound knowledge and authentic passion provided the very inspiration for these reports. Her friendly approach demystifies the complex world of Sake, while her deep devotion to its culture and craftsmen elevates it. Her seminal work, „SAKE – Mythos. Handwerk. Genuss“ , as i is named in the German edition, remains a beacon for enthusiasts. These pages are an extension of her mission—to build a bridge of understanding and appreciation between Japanese tradition and the global palate. Thank you for your guidance and for sharing the soul of Sake with us.
Umami and Sake
During sake brewing, koji mold breaks down rice starches into sugars and amino acids, notably glutamate, the primary driver of umami. This glutamate content, often higher in premium sakes like Junmai or Daiginjo, ranges from 100-300 mg/L, compared to 20-50 mg/L in wine, making sake a potent umami enhancer. The fermentation process also produces other amino acids and peptides that deepen umami’s savory, mouth-filling sensation. When paired with umami-rich foods like miso, soy sauce, seaweed, or aged cheeses, sake amplifies these flavors through a synergistic effect, as its glutamate interacts with food components like inosinate (from fish) or guanylate (from mushrooms). For example, sake with sushi enhances the fish’s natural umami, creating a more intense, harmonious taste. Different sake styles—fruity and light or earthy and robust—can modulate umami perception, with aged sakes often adding nutty, complex umami notes. This interplay makes sake a culinary tool for elevating umami-driven dishes in Japanese and global cuisines.
Part 1: The Art of the Sip – How to Taste Sake
Part 2: Building Your Palate – A Strategic Tasting Journey
Part 3: The Practical Connoisseur – Gear, Service, and Shopping
… Read the report…
Part 4: The Tasting Notes & Reviews
Curated and tasted in collaboration with Sake Samurai Yoshiko Ueno-Müller.
Sake 1: Fukuju Awasaki Sparkling, Kobe Shu-Shin-Kan Brewery (link)
Tasting Notes:
Pale straw hue with a vigorous mousse of fine, persistent bubbles. A vibrant and youthful aromatic bouquet of lychee, white peach, and a hint of rose petal. Light-bodied and off-dry, with flavors of fresh pear and a touch of yogurt-like creaminess. Delicate balance between acidity and fruzity juice. The carbonation is bright and refreshing, leading to a clean, fruity finish. A delightful and accessible aperitif.
General Information:
- Brewing & Ingredients: A Junmai sparkling sake, meaning it is made only from rice, water, and koji mold with no added distilled alcohol. It undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle, the Méthode Traditionnelle, which creates its fine, natural bubbles. The brewery, founded in 1751, is renowned for using premium Yamada Nishiki riceand the famous hard Miyamizu water from the Nada region.
- Serving Suggestion: Best served well chilled, at around 7-9°C (44-48°F), in a flute or white wine glass to preserve its effervescence and delicate aromas.
- Reputation & Rating: The Falstaff spirits guide rated this sparkling sake highly with 92 points in a 2024 tasting, describing it as „fruity and lively.“ It is widely regarded as a benchmark for quality Japanese sparkling sake. This sake is very popular with fusion food restaurants.
Sake 2: Tedorigawa „Yasuyuki“, Tedorigawa Shuzo (Link)
Tasting Notes:
Natural, yellow color. Unfiltered. A fruity, expressive, complex, and deep bouquet with ripe bananas, Golden Delicious apples, and other yellow fruits. A flavorful, polished, complex, and harmonious palate. Pure umami, incredibly enjoyable. 12% Alc. A sought-after Sake that performs a delicate balancing act; it presupposes a lot of work, while the younger Japanese generation tends to avoid manual labor.
General Information:
- Brewing & Ingredients: This is a classic, artisanal Junmai sake, likely Muroka (unfiltered) and Nama (unpasteurized), given its natural color and vibrant profile. It is crafted in Ishikawa Prefecture using soft, pristine local water and high-quality sake rice. The name „Yasuyuki“ implies a peaceful and pure nature.
- Serving Suggestion: Best enjoyed slightly chilled (10-12°C) to appreciate its complex bouquet and polished, umami-driven palate.
- Reputation & Rating: While specific major guide ratings are not widely published for this particular artisanal version, the Tedorigawa brewery is celebrated for its dedication to traditional methods. This sake is a cult favorite among connoisseurs specifically for its unfiltered, expressive, and labor-intensive character. We strongly recommend to watch the film “The Birth of Sake” (link).
Sake 3: Niida Shizenshu „Kioke“, Niida Brewery (link)
Tasting Notes:
Spontaneous fermentation. Alcohol from grain. „Back to the roots“ and the power of the earth. Arguably the sake in the tasting that best reflects the role of the soil. Organic rice. It feels powerful, yet harmonious and polished. Lightly charred notes are perceptible. A sake with a long finish that will appeal to the advanced enthusiast.
General Information
- Brewing & Ingredients: This is a Shizenshu (natural sake), a rare, artisanal category. It is brewed with organic rice and undergoes spontaneous fermentation in a traditional wooden vat (kioke), relying on wild, ambient yeast and bacteria. This method, without added brewer’s alcohol or lactic acid, creates a unique, funky, and complex profile directly influenced by the brewery’s microflora. The alcohol content is typically around 13-15%.
- Serving Suggestion: Serve chilled (12-15°C) to best appreciate its complex microbial aromas and vibrant, earthy character. Allowing it to open up in the glass is highly recommended.
- Reputation & Rating: Niida Brewery is a pioneer of the natural sake movement in Japan. The „Kioke“ is a cult favorite for its living, unpredictable character and dedication to pre-industrial methods. It has been highly rated by critics for its authenticity, with publications like Sake Times (link) highlighting its profound depth.
Sake 4: Katsuyama „Lei“, Katsuyama Brewery (link)
Tasting Notes:
Again, a great sake with ionic aromas, a hint of gummy bears and sweet notes, melon, a touch of apricot, and an incredible umami sensation. This sake was composed as a companion to French cuisine. Seductive, subtle, complex, both as a stand-alone drink and in combination with Iberico ham, in Switzerland a “kalte Platte” in the summer, salami, or blue cheese like Gorgonzola. Usually, one thinks of red wine with red meat and white wine with fish. This sake completely challenges such clichés.
General Information:
- Brewing & Ingredients: „Lei“ is a Junmai Ginjo sake brewed by the esteemed Katsuyama brewery in Fukushima. It is crafted with the local Gohyakumangoku rice, polished to at least 60%, which contributes to its clean and aromatic profile. The brewery’s soft, pristine water is key to its elegant structure.
- Serving Suggestion: Best served well-chilled (8-12°C) in a white wine glass to fully appreciate its complex aromatic bouquet and smooth, umami-rich palate.
- Reputation & Rating: Katsuyama „Lei“ has earned a strong international reputation for its versatility with food, particularly Western cuisines. It has received high praise from sommeliers for its ability to pair with a wide range of dishes, from charcuterie to rich cheeses, effectively breaking traditional beverage pairing rules.
Sake 5: Katsuyama „Diamond“, Katsuyama Brewery (link)
Tasting Notes:
A supplier to the imperial court for 300 years. A beautiful sake, the ‚Liquid Diamond,‘ made from the finest rice and with the most elaborate production methods, literally opens up a new world of aroma and taste. Fresh, elegant, perfect balance between acidity and body, long finish, pure umami. It gives the impression as if the soil consisted of limestone slabs; impressive.
General Information:
- Brewing & Ingredients: This is a premium Junmai Daiginjo sake from the revered Katsuyama brewery in Fukushima. It is crafted with the highly prized Yamada Nishiki rice, polished to a very high degree (likely below 50%), and uses exceptionally soft, pure local water. The „most elaborate production methods“ refer to meticulous, hands-on techniques managed by the Toji.
- Serving Suggestion: Serve well-chilled (8-10°C) in a wine glass to appreciate its intricate bouquet and elegant, layered palate. It is a sake for contemplation.
- Reputation & Rating: The Katsuyama brewery has the distinguished honor of being a purveyor to the Japanese Imperial Household. „Diamond“ is their flagship sake, representing the pinnacle of their craft. It is consistently highly rated for its precision, elegance, and stunning balance.
Sake 6: IWA 5 Assemblage 3 (2021), IWA Sake, Richard Geoffroy (link)
The name of the brewery clearly reveals Richard Geoffroy’s intentions. Although he does not conform to the centuries-old tradition of sake brewing, he claims to be a clear advocate. The brewery is called “IWA 5, Sake of Japan”. And through his process, he literally elevates it to the status of a divine beverage.
Tasting Notes:
A profound, animating, even enchanting, refined nose with an unanticipated complexity, from the bouquet to the long finish. Fresh notes of pear, raspberry, rose, a hint of jasmine, and white pepper on a mineral foundation stream from the glass; here, culture is noble. A polished palate with a very well-integrated acidity. It is characterized by its fruity elegance, with a touch of astringency present. I would let it rest for five years. Richard Geoffroy (link) is fundamentally perceived as an iconoclast. He has the incomparable talent, based on his over 25 years as Cellar Master at Dom Pérignon, to do what a classic Sake master does not do. He creates his Sake as he would a Champagne. This approach de-sanctifies Sake to transform it into an exclusive experience, a divine elixir as if only meant for the gods to taste.
General Information:
- Brewing & Ingredients: The „5“ in IWA 5 represents the core components of Geoffroy’s assemblage: the 3 rice varieties Yamada Nishiki, Omachi, and Gohyakumangoku; 5 yeast strains; and the resulting blend from 3 parallel brewing methods. He produces a library of up to 20 base sakes each year. The final IWA 5 is composed in a single, decisive assemblage each spring, mirroring the Champagne method.
- Serving Suggestion: Serve chilled (10-12°C) in a large Burgundy or white wine glass to allow its profound and complex aromatic architecture to fully express itself. As per the tasting note, it has significant aging potential.
- Reputation & Rating: IWA 5 has received monumental critical acclaim since its launch, with each assemblage garnering high praise. Assemblage 3 has been highly rated by experts for its enhanced precision and integration. The line has consistently scored in the mid-90s across various competitions and reviews, cementing its status as a visionary project that elevates the entire sake category.
The core philosophy and ingredients of IWA 5 remain constant. The difference between Assemblage 3 and Assemblage 5 is one of vintage expression. Each year, Richard Geoffroy creates a new assemblage from his library of base sakes. Assemblage 3 (link) is the unique blend from its specific production year, while Assemblage 5 is the blend from a later year. They are different chapters in the same story, each with its own nuanced balance and aromatic profile.
Sake 7: Daruma Masamune 2005, Daruma Sake (link)
A vintage Sake!! A complex, fascinating nose where wood makes an appearance, but exquisite scents of peat, chocolate, caramel, lovage, and spices also come to the fore. Definitely not clumsy, but sensual. One wonders if the owner of the brewery prevailed over the Sake master… A quite elegant, again complex, lush, and harmonious palate; the acidity and the 16% alcohol combine very well. It tastes like a fine cognac without its fire, reminiscent of a Tawny Port or a Sherry, and, yes, even a Scottish Christmas Pudding.
General Information:
- Daruma Masamune is a legendary bottle in the world of aged sake.
- Brewing & Ingredients: This is a rare Koshu (aged sake) and a vintage sake, a highly unusual practice that adds immense value by capturing the character of a specific year’s harvest and the transformative effects of long-term maturation. Brewed by Daruma Sake, it is a Junmai style that has undergone long-term aging, likely in wooden vessels. The high 16% alcohol suggests it may be a Genshu (undiluted).
- Serving Suggestion: Serve at room temperature (15-18°C) or slightly warmed in a small snifter or ochoko to unlock its profound, spirituous aromas. This is a sake for contemplative sipping.
- Reputation & Rating: The 2005 vintage is highly sought after by collectors and connoisseurs for its exceptional complexity and rarity. It receives top marks from specialized reviewers for its bold, bridge-building character.
Sake 8: Ikekame Rosé, Ikekame Brewery (link)
On her website (link), Yoshiko Ueno-Müller described this Sake with the following words: „A special rosé sake from red rice with exotic notes of lemon balm, raspberry syrup, and orange zest. The use of black koji leads to a wine-like acidity.“ In my opinion, a rather uncomplicated, open, very fresh, and yet relatively complex sake that reminds me of a wine. Difficult to evaluate after the last three monuments.
General Information
- Brewing & Ingredients: This is a unique Junmai rosé sake. Its distinctive salmon-pink color comes from the use of red rice (akamai) or aka-koji (red koji). The key to its profile is the use of black koji (kuro-koji), which produces a prominent, crisp, citric acidity that is remarkably similar to that found in wine.
- Serving Suggestion: Serve well-chilled (8-10°C) in a white wine glass. Its bright acidity and fruity notes make it a perfect aperitif or a pairing for salads, light appetizers, and fruit-based desserts.
- Reputation & Rating: Ikekame Rosé is celebrated as an innovative and playful sake that successfully bridges the gap between the sake and wine worlds. It is highly rated for its approachability and unique character, often receiving praise for its refreshing quality.
Conclusion: Your Journey Has Just Begun
With this primer in hand, you are no longer a novice but an informed explorer. The world of Sake is vast and endlessly fascinating. Let your curiosity be your guide. Taste widely, ask questions, and, most importantly, share the experience.
Remember, every bottle has a story. Your journey on the Go-Shu no Michi is now underway. Kampai!
