Penfolds 2025 Unleashed: A Tasting Odyssey Through Iconic Wines

Step into a world where grapes defy borders and bottles hold stories—welcome to the Penfolds Collection 2025. This isn’t just a lineup of wines; it’s a rebellion against the ordinary, a tapestry woven from the wild terroirs of Australia, France, the USA, and China. Each sip carries the audacious spirit of Peter Gago, Penfolds’ alchemist-in-chief, whose relentless pursuit of excellence transforms vineyards into liquid legends. From the mythic Grange to the daring FWT 543, this collection pulses with the House Style—depth, elegance, and a fearless dance between tradition and innovation. In the pages ahead, my ratings and notes invite you to uncork this odyssey, where every glass is a journey and every flavor a revelation. Ready your palate; Penfolds 2025 awaits.

Gago’s Alchemy: The Soul of Penfolds’ Triumph

Picture Peter Gago, a rogue alchemist in a crimson-stained apron, conjuring stardust from gnarled vines beneath a Barossa moon. His hands, scarred by tannin wars, wield barrels like wands, blending Shiraz’s wild heart with Cabernet’s steely spine. With a grin that ferments storms into silk, he crafts elixirs that defy timeGrange’s thunderous roar, Yattarna’s delicate whisper, FWT 543’s daring spark. Gago doesn’t chase trends; he ignites them, his scientist’s mind fused with a poet’s fevered dream, turning rugged terroir into liquid lore that haunts palates across the globe.

Peter Gago (c) Treasury Wine Estates
(c) Treasury Wine Estates

He’s the shadowy maestro of Penfolds’ velvet empire, conducting a symphony of chaos and grace. From South Australia’s iron-rich soils to Bordeaux’s ancient estates, his wines are bottled rebellions against the mundane. Grange, born from Max Schubert’s 1951 gamble, owes its modern myth to Gago’s relentless vision. He’s revived forgotten blends, launched experiments like space-aged vintages, and woven the House Style—depth, elegance, defiance—into every glass, from Bin 707’s power to FWT 543’s borderless audacity.

Since 2002, Gago and Penfolds have been fused like oak and wine, their fates knotted in a vine’s eternal embrace. Without his alchemy, Penfolds might have withered into dusty archives, a relic of its 1844 origins. Without Penfolds’ global stage, Gago’s brilliance would lack its resonant echo. He’s steered the winery through economic storms and climate caprices, crafting icons that pulse with life across Australia, France, the USA, and China. Each bottle bears his imprint: tradition kissed by temerity, a legacy that redefines wine’s frontiers.

Imagine a wine world without Penfolds—a desolate wasteland where glasses hold only echoes of mediocrity. No Grange to stir the soul with its brooding depth. No Bin 707 to challenge Bordeaux’s gods with its cassis-fueled might. No Yattarna to dance with citrus and minerality. No FWT 543 to spark dreams of what wine could be. It’s a gray void, stripped of the fire Gago’s alchemy kindles, where palates pine for boldness, and joy curdles into sadness. With Gago at the helm, Penfolds isn’t just wine—it’s salvation in a bottle, a radiant beacon against despair.

(c) Penfolds

Boundary-Defying Icons: My Wine Ratings for the Penfolds Collection 2025

After diving into the world of Peter Gago and the inseparable fate of Penfolds—a dance of alchemical boldness and ancient heritage—I now delve deeper. The 2025 Collection, as it was so aptly highlighted in corresponding article (link), is a mosaic of 24 wines, uniting continents and woven together by the red thread of the Penfolds House Style: depth, elegance, and unwavering structure. Drawing on the latest tastings and reviews (as of September 2025), I’ve rated a selection of standout wines as they were offered graciously by ARVI (link), the noble wine merchant with two subsidiaries in Zurich and Lugano and its parent company in Melano . My scale ranges from 1 to 100 points, inspired by Penfolds’ ethos—where experimentation meets tradition. I focus on the most prestigious wines available through La Place de Bordeaux in German-speaking markets, plus the new FWT 543 as a fresh highlight.

Yattarna Chardonnay 2023, Tasmania / Adelaide Hills / Tumbarumba

12.5% alcohol. Fresh, balanced, refined, and deep nose, immediately reminiscent of a Grand Cru from the Côte de Beaune. What a complex bouquet, most of which is still barely perceptible. You literally dance with this wine in honor of the icons that have been vinified with remarkable potential. Lively citrus notes and agrumes with nutty oak notes, brilliantly mineral, yet almost discreet and full of promise. Outstanding and already astonishingly harmonious, with a noble palate that is still restrained. – A Chardonnay gem that will unfold its full elegance over time. Despite its excellent structure, the concentration is particularly noticeable in the long-lasting and deliciously fruity finish. The comparison with a Montrachet seems obvious. 18.5/20 (95/100).

This wine is available for CHF 129.70 at ARVI.

St Henri Shiraz 2022, South Australia (Barossa Valley / McLaren Vale / Padthaway)

96% Shiraz, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon. 14.5% alcohol.
A seductive and hearty, fresh and precise, complex and thoroughly balanced, profound and exciting nose that develops when the glass is swirled. What delicious aromas of plums, black cherries, blackberry jelly, licorice, and spices, with a subtle hint of dark chocolate and other components that will develop over time. Refined, polished, pure palate with soft tannins without new oak and a very good structure that gives the fresh juice plenty of room to develop very favorably. A classic that enchants without overwhelming – the heart of the collection for effortless enjoyment, everything perfectly interwoven, right through to the lingering finish, where some tannins come to the fore. Wait at least ten years more before first drinking window . 18+/20 (93+/100).

This wine is available for CHF 91.90 at ARVI.

Bin 798 RWT 2023, Barossa Valley

RWT stands for ‘Red Winemaking Trial’, the name given to the project when developmental work began in the early 1990s. First released in 2000 with the 1997 vintage,

100% shiraz. 14.5% alcohol.

This dreamlike single-varietal Shiraz wine is also called Penfolds non Grange Barossa Shiraz. Which says a lot about its inner identity. Initially reserved, refined, extremely disciplined and noble, profound, harmonious and endowed with rich potential. Currently, the handbrake can be felt, we encounter a condor that will certainly only spread its wings in 15 years. However, it can be understood at different levels; it already gives a lot of pleasure today, although it will take on a completely different stature in 15 years. A seamless, racy, finesse-rich Shiraz with dark berries, pepper, and velvety, concentrated tannins on the lively, powerful palate. Dense yet so elegant, fresh all around, an incredible achievement, no, even a “Baby Grange” with depth and charm—perfectly balanced, for lovers of the power and finesse of Barossa. 18.75/20 (96/100).

This wine is available for CHF 124.30 at ARVI.

Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, McLaren Vale / Padthaway / Barossa Valley

An impressive 100% single grape Cabernet Sauvignon without the slightest hint of bell peppers. Instead, it has a racy, profound, fresh, thoroughly harmonious, and complex nose, which I am currently holding back, but which has incredible potential. The glass exudes beguiling, precise, and pure aromas of cassis, black cherries, dark chocolate, graphite, herbs, coconut, caramel… A nose that you can spend a long time exploring and always enjoy discovering additional components. Quite simply a dreamlike CS! We are a long way from Bordeaux, but it would definitely be a lot of fun to include this wine in a blind tasting. The 14.5% alcohol is once again perfectly integrated and this product should develop into a giant in 15 years. Full-bodied, racy, deep, thoroughly precise and pure on the palate, with concise acidity and a magnificent, unshakeable structure that should penetrate the decades without showing any signs of aging. Enormous culture, not at all lush or wasteful, quite the contrary, concentrated, but also beautifully silky, refined, with noble fruit, Provençal accents and, once again, the same aromas as in the bouquet. Impressive, long finish. One of those products that demonstrate the outstanding talent of Peter Gago and his team. 18.75/20 (96/100).

This wine is available for CHF 427.- at ARVI.

Grange 2021, Barossa Valley / McLaren Vale / Clare Valley

94% Shiraz, 6% Cabernet-Sauvignon. 14.5% alcohol.

I can’t remember ever tasting such a fantastic Grange. In Zurich, I always find one opportunity or another to taste the latest vintage, but this one surpasses everything. No, worse, it literally challenges the senses; you think you can smell aromas, and at the same time you know that it’s not even infanticide that’s happening, no, it’s happening at an earlier stage. You want “Back to the Future” to happen so we can jump at least 20, maybe even 30 years into the future. You smell this infinitely complex bouquet, you smell it again and again, you take a sip and come back to the nose. Again and again. The Grange 2021 offers an ethereal, unforgettable, profound, powerful, complex nose with immense potential. When talent is on first-name terms with the gods… Unlikely. The bouquet reveals its origins, but these extremely pure aromas of blackberries, black cherries and other black fruits, as well as delicate hints of mint and eucalyptus, precious wood, a touch of nougat, floral elements, blueberries, dried herbs, a hint of dried meat, tobacco and, over time, a variety of other components. You lose your bearings and have to stay fully focused so as not to forget to take notes. I tasted this wine four times and am convinced that the kaleidoscope of aromas would have continued to spin… Full-bodied, incredibly complex, refined, racy, concentrated palate, the tannins are dense, confusingly polished, perfectly interwoven with the wood, the whole is irresistibly sensual, the excellently integrated acidity brings a balance that can only be found in luxury watch technology. The structure is mineral and the finish is virtually endless. A promising monument not only in the history of Australian wines, but also in that of the world’s finest products. 19.5/20 (99/100).

This wine is available for CHF 551.30 at ARVI.

Penfolds 2025: A Global Vintage Beyond Compare

The Penfolds Collection 2025, with its 24 wines from Australia, USA, France, and China, continues the winery’s global odyssey while staying true to its House Style—depth, elegance, and bold experimentation. Compared to earlier collections, 2025 stands out for its refined ambition. The 2021 Grange, lauded with two perfect 100-point scores, rivals the legendary 1990 and 2008 vintages for its seamless balance and 60-year potential, outshining the slightly overshadowed 2020 release. The introduction of FWT 543 Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah, a French take on the classic Australian blend, echoes the innovative spirit of the 2018 Bin 600 debut but pushes further with Bordeaux terroir, unlike the California-focused 2020-2022 collections. Yattarna 2023 shines brighter than its 2022 predecessor, offering Montrachet-like finesse. However, the absence of Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon, reserved for exceptional years, mirrors gaps in 2023 and 2024, signaling Penfolds’ strict quality ethos. The 2025 Collection feels more cohesive than the 2024 lineup, with fewer experimental outliers like the 2024 Champagnes, and its global scope surpasses the Australia-heavy 2020 Collection. Gago’s alchemy ensures 2025 balances heritage with boundary-defying daring, making it a pinnacle release.

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