After Covid the yearlong Covid hibernation in Singapore one of Asia’s largest collector organized this fabulous «revenge tasting» at his home. What generosity given the rarity and cost of these bottles. I only recently started tasting and comparing Champagne in a serious way and if I look at my 200+ tasting notes, Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, Krug Grande Cuvee and Egly-Ouriet BdN have emerged as my favorites. Thus, I am not (yet?) a Blanc de Blancs guy. Even more so I was looking forward to this tasting to learn more. Here are my takeaways (all bottles were decanted and served blind in random flights of three to four) to 12 invited guests, friends, MWs, people form the trade. Such are the relationships of this collector that Krug’s CEO Margareth Henríquez also made an appearance on Zoom, giving us some more background on the wine before the tasting started.
The summary
- No news, the quality of Krug Clos du Mesnil is both high and constant. The wines have excellent acidity and precision but are not thin despite being BdB. True to the Krug style, there is generosity and richness. Grand in every way.
- The wine ages effortlessly. As good and fresh as the younger bottles were, the most impressive showings were 20+ years old. So don’t hesitate to age them in your cellar.
- I found the tertiary aromas of this BdB much more interesting than the ones of aged white Burgs. The oxidative aromas are subtle and stay in the background. There is a very sophisticated taste of the older Clos du Mesnil where not only the color turns orange but the citrus moves towards tangerine with a hint of apple cider aromas similar to aged Chenin Blanc. There is also fennel, cedar and occasionally raspberry notes. Really quite interesting.
- As strange as it sounds, decanting Champagne into a water carafe is one of the best things you can do. You lose very little effervescence but you gain very much in aroma. After this tasting I started doing this myself more often with young releases. The difference is enormous, the nose opens up so much, so quickly.
- Also confirmed tonight, Champagne in general has much less bottle variation and cork taint. Partly this comes of course from the fact that the first 10 years or so all bottles age at the same place. From that angle Prestige Cuvee or quality Grower Champagne, typically in the 150-300$ price range, are a really good deal. You get the best wines, the bottles are already aged and are highly consistent with little bottle variation and cork issues. What do you want more?
The tasting
1979 Krug Clos du Mesnil
The last flight was blessed with several “as good as it gets” bottles. Arresting nose with complex aromas of tangerine, caramel, dried raisins. Despite its age, the palate is fresh with bright acidity. Endless finish. Simply stunning and the group’s favorite on this flight. 19.75-20/20 (100/100).
1980 Krug Clos du Mesnil
This was the group’s favorite in this flight. Discrete nose also here. The palate was a real hit as there was an extra layer of sweetness with aromas of raspberry, caramel, sour plum and a hint of coffee. Stunning. What a start! 19.5/20 (99/100).
1981 Krug Clos du Mesnil
Orange color. Wonderful nose of pink roses, peach, sandal wood, quince and earl gray tea. Excellent palate that is not oxidative but just aged well. The group’s favorite in this flight and one of three perfect showings tonight. Really impressive! 19.75-20/20 (100/100).
1985 Krug Clos du Mesnil
Deep orange color. Nose of honey, orange marmalade, dried apricot. Deep and complex, oxidative in a good way, very subtle. I really like how the Clos du Mesnil ages. The oxidation is not aggressive like in a Sherry or premixed white Burg but more like in a Port where it stays in the background adding to the concert instead of dominating it. Excellent freshness on the palate, long finish. Another Wow showing. This was the group’s favorite of the flight. 19.5/20 (99/100).
1986 Krug Clos du Mesnil
This was the group’s runner up in the first flight. Discrete nose at first, then opening up with tangerine, orange marmalade, biscuit, finely oxidative. More sweetness on the palate than the 1989. Very refined. 19/20 (97/100).
