In an era of globalized taste, every choice we make as wine lovers carries weight. Do we follow the well-trodden path, or do we seek out the road less travelled? To choose a wine from Cantina Gilli (link) is to do more than select a beverage; it is to cast a vote for a diverse and rich viticultural future.
This is a report about a winery that listens—to the whispers of ancient vines like Freisa and the fragrant laughter of Malvasia. In a world rushing towards uniformity, Cantina Gilli stands as an act of delicious resistance, answering the fading echoes of taste with bottles that are preserved pieces of time. Here, the most profound creativity is not invention, but the courage to remember, and the skill to revive. Join us in exploring why this vote matters, and how the future of fine wine is being written in the forgotten vineyards of Piedmont.
The Spark of Creativity – Why Gilli is Piedmont’s Compelling Star
In a region rightly celebrated for the majestic Nebbiolo of Barolo and the robust Barbera of Asti, defining „creativity“ in winemaking can be challenging. Innovation here is not about importing foreign grapes or chasing international styles; it is a far more profound and difficult endeavour. True creativity in the heart of Piedmont lies in reinterpreting the ancient, in giving a future to what was nearly forgotten. This is the realm where Cantina Gilli operates not merely as a winery, but as archaeologists and alchemists of Piedmont’s genetic heritage.
While many estates perfect a single, celebrated expression, Gilli’s genius is one of curation and resurrection. Their portfolio reads like a map of alternative Piedmont. Alongside their foundational Barbera d’Asti, they have built a compelling narrative around grapes that were, until recently, considered relics:
- Freisa: The wild, aromatic, and historically overlooked cousin of Nebbiolo, which Gilli champions in multiple, serious expressions.
- Malvasia di Schierano: The delicate, aromatic grape behind the sweet, red, and gently fizzy Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco—a wine that defies every modern convention of style.
Their creativity is not expressed in flashy technology, but in patient, observant work in the vineyard and cellar. It is the creativity of understanding that the thin-skinned Malvasia requires a harvest at perfect, delicate balance to avoid flabbiness. It is the insight to treat the structured Freisa with the same respect as a noble variety, using careful oak aging to tame its rustic edges without stripping its vibrant soul. At Gilli, creativity is synonymous with contextual intelligence—knowing precisely how to listen to each grape’s unique voice.
In a global wine market that often rewards uniformity, Cantina Gilli makes a bold, counter-cultural statement. They are a compelling star not because they follow Piedmont’s main narrative, but because they illuminate the fascinating, intricate footnotes. They prove that in one of the world’s greatest wine regions, there are still thrilling stories left to be told, waiting in old vineyards and in the memory of the land. They don’t just make wine; they safeguard a disappearing dialect of flavour, making them one of Piedmont’s most vital and creative custodians.
The Tasting
The wines were tasted in September 2025. The tasting was commented on in the afternoon by the very friendly sales representative Katia Gazzola, while Davide Gasperini, the sales manager of the Cascina, accompanied us during dinner.
Il Forno 2024 (link), Freisa d’Asti DOC
Superb nose, balanced, deep, very pure and refined, elegant, with beautiful complexity and great ageing potential. Delicious scents of black fruits, blackberries, black tea, balsamic vinegar, violets, blueberries, spices, red fruits and finally liquorice rise from the glass. Captivating. Full-bodied, polished, complex, fresh and well-balanced on the palate with a pronounced but well-integrated acidity, a stimulating interplay between sweet and tart notes, lots of flavour and smoothness, even if it needs to be left to age, silky tannins that still need some time, long finish. 17.75+/20 (92+/100). It’s hard to believe that this wine costs less than 15 Swiss francs.
Dedica 2021 (link), Barbera d’Asti DOCG Superiore
This wine exemplifies the greatness of the Barbera grape variety. Intense, deep, complex, opulent without being extravagant, racy and beguiling, the nose offers pure and promising scents of wild berries, blackberries, black cherries, liquorice, spices and undergrowth. A nose that clearly seduces. Full-bodied, juicy, elegant, pure, dry and thoroughly balanced on the palate with a promising, velvety structure, lots of noble flavour and a long-lasting, mineral finish. 18+/20 (93+/100).
Neuv 2022 (link), Albugnano DOC Superiore “549”
A wine that could leave a lasting impression. Expressive, complex, promising, spicy and offering very appealing, fresh and elegant fruit, while the full-bodied, harmonious and noble palate reveals, alongside its natural class, an acidity suited for ageing, delicious and abundant red fruit and a subtle spicy background. The dense, refined tannins tend to take over, but the overall harmony is well established. A promising wine. 17.75/20. (92/100).
The Winery – Anatomy of a Niche Protagonist
Cantina Gilli’s creative output is not a happy accident; it is the direct result of a deliberate, holistic philosophy that governs every aspect of their work—from the vineyard to the market. Operating from their historic estate in Castelnuovo Don Bosco, they embody the model of a „niche protagonist„: a winery of significant scale and heritage that chooses to dedicate its resources not to volume or convention, but to the focused expression of a singular, place-specific vision. The winery was newly established in 1983, although it is actually a historic winery, having already existed in Napoleon’s time. It is a ‘small boutique winery’, as Katia Gazzola describes it, although it produces 70,000 bottles per year. The region is also Romanesque, dotted with churches dating back to the 14th century. The monument par excellence is not the picturesque Benedictine monastery of Venozzalo (link), founded in 773 by Charlemagne, but the imposing Colle Don Bosco sanctuary (link), built in the second half of the 20th century.
