On a golden late-summer morning, we arrived at Cascina Castlèt, nestled among the gentle hills of Costigliole d’Asti. The air carried the promise of autumn mists. We were greeted not by a formal delegation, but by Mariuccia Borio herself – an impressive lady radiating enthusiasm and unstoppable energy, her eyes sparkling with the same fire she has brought to this Cascina since inheriting it from her father in 1970 – and Alice Bianco, the charming head of wine tourism at the estate. Mariuccia Borio produced her 55th vintage in 2025 at the Cascina.
What makes Cascina Castlèt truly distinctive is that women have always held the real power here – a quiet but determined matriarchal thread running through its modern history. In a region and an era when land and vineyards traditionally passed only to sons, Mariuccia – an only child and a young woman – took command after her father’s sudden death. Defying convention in the male-dominated world of 1970s Piemonte wine, she refused to sell or dilute the family legacy.
Instead, she transformed a modest holding into one of the most creative and respected Cascinas in Monferrato: innovative yet deeply rooted, elegant yet bold. Her story is not just personal; it echoes through the Borio women before her and the courageous spirit captured forever on the iconic Vespa label.
Mariuccia welcomed us with open arms and an infectious passion that turned what could have been a standard visit into a genuine celebration of place, family, and vision. She led us through the ancient stone walls of the Cascina and the modern touches she has added over decades, all while telling stories of brave choices and the revival of a nearly forgotten variety – Uvalino, and a relentless pursuit of elegance in every bottle. Here was no ordinary winemaker: this was a pioneer who proved that women could not only lead but redefine what leadership in Piedmont wine could mean.
At the heart of Cascina Castlèt stand two wines that define its soul and carry the weight of its history.
Passum (link) – the timeless Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG born from partially dried grapes (appassimento) – is the Cascina’s undisputed flagship. Intense, structured, velvety, and capable of remarkable longevity, it carries the signature of Mariuccia’s vision: density without heaviness, power wrapped in refinement, and an almost architectural balance that has made it a cult wine among connoisseurs worldwide.
Barbera della Vespa (link) – the joyful, everyday Barbera d’Asti DOCG with its iconic Vespa label – is the historical heart of the Cascina. The label tells a tender family story: a snapshot from the 1950s shows young Mariuccia Borio – she’s sitting in the back on the Vespa- and three little girls -her cousins- perched triumphantly atop the family Vespa in the courtyard during a holiday moment. What began as a playful carousel for children on a parked scooter became the symbol of post-war simplicity, family warmth, and the quiet optimism of a new beginning in Piemonte – and of the Borio women looking boldly toward the future. Evoking ripe red fruits, crunchy freshness, delicate floral notes, and unmistakable drinkability, it embodies the convivial spirit that has carried the name Cascina Castlèt for generations – a wine that invites sharing, laughter, and the comfort of roots.
Together, these two wines encapsulate Cascina Castlèt’s philosophy: respect for the land’s heritage, fearless creativity guided by women’s vision and hands and an unwavering commitment to quality – from the accessible everyday joy of Vespa to the profound elegance of Passum. As Mariuccia poured the first glasses, her smile said it all – this is not just wine; this is legacy in every sip.
The Tasting
The tasting took place on-site, and nine wines were served, representing the full range of wines produced on the Cascina’s 31 hectares.
Barbera della Vespa 2024 (link), Barbera d’Asti DOC
100% Barbera. From Cascina vineyards in Costigliole d’Asti on clay-limestone marls at 300 m. Guyot training; ~5,000 vines/ha density; hand-harvested in September/October. Vinified in stainless steel with temperature-controlled fermentation; short maceration on skins for extraction; aged briefly in tank before bottling. Alcohol 13.5–14%. Designed as an accessible, early-drinking expression.
A very beautiful, harmonious, inviting, pure, and fresh nose unfolds. While not exceptionally complex, it offers seductive, approachable scents of juicy cherries and strawberries, blackberries, violets, and other floral notes, not to mention a hint of liqueur. Delicious, juicy, balanced, and fresh on the palate, an all-around elegant and very refined wine. Flavourful, crisp fruit, silky tannins, and very well-integrated acidity. A very good, lingering finish that invites you to pour a second glass. A very lovely wine for hedonists, not for technical connoisseurs. 17.25-17.5/20 (90-91/100).
Passum 2020 (link), Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG
100% Barbera. Selected grapes undergo partial drying (appassimento) in small crates post-harvest to concentrate sugars and flavours. From Cascina vineyards on marly-clay-limestone soils. Fermentation with extended maceration; aged in oak barrels (barriques and/or larger formats) for extended periods to develop complexity and longevity. Alcohol 15%. Known for structured, age-worthy profile.
15.5% alcohol. A fascinating nose, reminiscent of an Amarone, though due to the Barbera grape variety rather than the classic Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, etc. Initially reserved, it then opens up, though it remains youthful—waiting five to ten years is definitely recommended—deep, complex, refined, full of finesse, concentrated… Pure, delicate, and seductive scents of plum, wild cherries, raspberries, and spices—including cloves, preserved currants, and a hint of chocolate—pour from the glass; the whole experience is entirely focused on pleasure and offers promising complexity, while persistent tears form on the glass. The palate is full-bodied, lush, juicy, thoroughly harmonious, and polished; the tannins are soft and velvety, an exquisite creaminess flows across the mouth, while the flavours work in unison with those in the bouquet. The acidity is juicy and perfectly integrated, delivering freshness. A long-lasting, subtly sweet and spicy finish. Clearly a masterpiece. 17.75-18.25/20 (92-94/100).
Passum 2007 (link), Barbera d’Asti Superiore DOCG
Complex, deep, dark, fresh, and open—one is easily seduced by this impressive bouquet, which has simply taken a great deal of time to fully unfold. It clearly still has potential for several more years. An authentic Christmas pudding, with molasses-like black fruit, roasted nuts, tobacco and smoke, dried cherries and dried herbs, and floral elements. This definitely leaves no one indifferent. Notes of leather and dried meat round out the picture. Full-bodied, juicy, energetic, and concentrated on the palate; the dense tannins are very delicate, every component is in its place and contributes to the wine’s success. Very dry—1 g residual sugar—with a very long finish. A wine full of character, of which I bought a case. 18/20 (93/100).
Women in Power: The Matriarchal Thread at Cascina Castlèt
In the hills of Costigliole d’Asti, where land and vineyards have traditionally passed from father to son, Cascina Castlèt tells a different story. Here, for more than half a century, women have quietly but firmly held the real power – a matriarchal continuity that began long before the term “women’s leadership” became fashionable in the wine world.
The turning point came in 1970. When her father died unexpectedly, Mariuccia Borio – an only child – inherited the family estate at a time when women in Piemonte wine were still rare exceptions. In a deeply patriarchal region and industry, she made a courageous decision: she would not sell, not divide, and not step aside. Instead, she took full command of what was then a modest 5-hectare holding (part of the larger 20 hectares divided among her uncles). With determination and vision, she transformed it into the 31-hectare estate we know today.
Mariuccia quickly became known as the “signora di ferro” – the iron lady of Monferrato. She introduced innovative vineyard practices, revived the ancient appassimento technique for Barbera with Passum, and embarked on a decades-long mission to rescue the nearly extinct Uvalino grape. Her bold, often provocative label designs (starting with the iconic Vespa in the 1980s) challenged the conservative aesthetics of the time and helped put Cascina Castlèt on the international map.
Yet her influence reaches far beyond her own cellar. In 1988 she was one of the founding members of Le Donne del Vino (link), the national association of women in Italian wine. For nine years she served as regional delegate for Piemonte, energising the network and strengthening the collective voice of women producers. In 2023 the association honoured her with a special award for 35 years of active membership, recognising not only her entrepreneurial achievements but also her international solidarity projects – including the purchase of 50 hectares of Amazon rainforest in Ecuador to prevent deforestation.
What makes Cascina Castlèt’s story particularly powerful is that the “women in power” theme is not limited to one generation. The iconic Barbera della Vespa label itself immortalises four little girls – including young Mariuccia – perched triumphantly on the family scooter in the 1950s. It is a tender yet defiant image: the next generation of Borio women already claiming their place, looking boldly into the future while drawing strength from family roots.
Today, Mariuccia continues to lead with the same energy and passion that has defined her for 55 vintages. She remains living proof that true leadership in wine is not about gender – but when a woman defies convention in a male-dominated world, the results can be revolutionary: elegant wines, preserved heritage, and a legacy that inspires a new generation of women winemakers across Piemonte and beyond.
