We continue our series of articles devoted to the 2023 Burgundy vintage. This is a vintage where you certainly need to know how to choose your wines, but one that ultimately brilliantly meets the four principles we established a fortnight ago:
- Don’t expect all wines from a great vintage to be great.
- Don’t expect all wines from a poor vintage to be average at best.
- Don’t expect all wines from an excellent winemaker to be successful (or deserve any attention).
- Don’t expect an unknown winemaker’s wines to be worthy of attention.
The key word is ‘yield’. We have already discussed the somewhat contradictory climatic conditions of 2023 in other articles on the vintage. It was certainly the hottest year on record, but the rains also caused potential yields to skyrocket. It was imperative to carry out two ‘green’ harvests (one green and one pink/blue in reality) and to work tirelessly in the vineyards. If only to prevent the development of diseases (Mildew, rot). In this respect, 2023 is not a carbon copy of the masterful 2022 vintage. Nor is it a vintage ‘in the footsteps of the legendary 1990’ as some merchants would like to interpret it (see our footnote “The truth about 1990”1). But 2023 is and will remain a vintage to cellar. Not buying anything would be a grave mistake. And not only because of the extremely rare 2024 vintage and its successor, which is certainly very promising but with yields that are also lower than expected. 2023 is lovely – charming, plentiful, and likely excellent value – but it lacks the sheer intensity, concentration, and immortal structure that make 1990 legendary. Buy 2023 if you want delicious, earlier-drinking Burgundy and seriously keep your eyes open for fairer prices.
1 1990 Burgundy – A legendary Vintage and why 2023 cannot be on the Steps of 1990
1990 was the ripest, most opulent vintage of the late 20th century in Burgundy. A warm spring, scorching summer, and perfect September harvest delivered thick-skinned grapes at full maturity, with high natural sugars and soft acidity. Yields were generous (around 35–40 hl/ha, close to or at appellation maxima), yet the best growers maintained balance through strict selection and gentle extraction.
Far from wet, 1990 was a hot, largely dry year that produced exceptionally concentrated reds with deep colour, plush textures, velvet tannins, and exotic black-fruit intensity. The growing season had its challenges: cool, wet spring conditions affected flowering (causing millerandage and slightly lower yields in some places), while the hot, dry summer stressed vines until welcome late-August/early-September rains refreshed them without rot or dilution. Harvest conditions were ideal.
Today, thirty-five years later, the finest 1990 reds -from Rousseau, Roumier, DRC, Mugneret-Gibourg, Engel, Lafarge, Tardy, Domaine de Coucel, Bocquenet, and others- are drinking gloriously on a long, open mature plateau. Sweet fruit has evolved into truffle, sous-bois, dried roses, and kirsch, while the structure remains remarkably fresh and vibrant. Many top bottles are still improving and will live comfortably another decade or more.
Recent warm vintages like 2023 -charming and abundant as they are- simply lack the sheer intensity, concentration, and immortal backbone that define 1990. The 1990s were built for eternity; 2023 offers delicious early-to-medium-term pleasure. The comparison, however flattering the merchant’s intent, does not hold.
The Tasting
The tasting took place on the 4th of December 2025 in the Buonvini shop (link) in Zurich. The wines were not served blind, and time was set aside for participants to discuss each wine. The tasting conditions were ideal, although those who, like us, attach importance to the lunar calendar may have regretted that the event took place on a root day.
Joseph Pascal, Puligny-Montrachet (Villages) 2023
13% vol. alcohol. Youthful, aromatic, elegant, refined and harmonious nose with delicate aromas of hawthorn, lemongrass, green apple, a subtle reduction/nutty hints (hazelnut, marzipan), as well as flint. On the palate, it is smooth, elegant and profound. A harmonious interplay of finesse, structure and elegance that lingers on the palate, good freshness thanks to timely rains). an enjoyable wine from the promising young Joseph Pascal, working just 1.8 ha of prime village and premier cru parcels with organic practices and monastic cellar restraint and the ideal companion for an evening with good friends. 17.25-17.5/20 (90-91/100).
Jean Tardy, Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Cuvée Maëlie 2023
Very beautiful, elegant, harmonious nose, where you can tell that the vines have already reached a certain age – they were planted in 1966. The glass exudes pure, inviting, fresh aromas of juicy red fruits, especially cherries, floral elements, a hint of spice, all of which is very enjoyable. Delicious, fresh palate in the same vein, with a decent, dancing structure, lots of flavour, polished, silky tannins and mineral notes that linger until the medium-long finish. Once again, a very nice, thoroughly appealing everyday wine that proves that Domaine Tardy produces more than just great wines, from Nuits-Saint-Georges (Villages) Bas de Combe to Echézeaux. A Hautes-Côtes that rivals many Côte de Nuits villages and proves that Domaine Tardy’s magic touches even the high-altitude old vines of the present appellation. 17.25/20 (90/100).
Joseph Voillot, Pommard (Villages) Vieilles Vignes 2022
Needs air, initially appears introspective. The nose is elegant, but also characteristic of the AOC, harmonious, pure, complex, concentrated and profound, developing during tasting and promising great things for the future. The glass exudes complex aromas of juicy red fruits, including cherries, plums, blackcurrants and raspberries, floral components such as peonies, spices, wood tones, violets and other elements. Full-bodied, yet concentrated and elegant, structured and promising on the palate with a mineral framework that recalls the great traditional Pommards of the past. The tannins are dense yet delicate, the fruit flavourful and in harmony with that in the bouquet, the acidity very well integrated and the finish long-lasting, complex and fresh. 17.5-17.75/20 (91-92/100).
Alain Jeanniard, Morey-Saint-Denis (Villages) Vieilles Vignes 2022
We assume that Domaine Jean Tardy is already well known to Burgundy enthusiasts. Domaine Alain Jeanniard, which we have been following since the 2012 vintage thanks to a magnificent but very confidential Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Combottes, is therefore proving to be the hidden gem of this tasting.
The designation ‘Vieilles Vignes’ (old vines) has sparked debate about its meaning. French legislation is too permissive. The INAO, which is so quick to reprimand deviations (we remember its relentless pursuit of Emmanuel Giboulot when “flavescence dorée” (en “golden yellowing”, dt. “Goldgelbe Vergilbung”) appeared on some of his vines in 2014, who was finally acquitted a few months later), finds no cause for debate when certain winegrowers describe vines that are around thirty years old as old vines. As a reminder, a vine can live to be a hundred years old. Just like a human being. Is a human being already old at 35? Of course not. So why should vines be? Most of Alain Jeanniard’s vines in Morey-Saint-Denis, on the other hand, were planted by his grandfather in 1929…
A subtly beguiling, elegant and promising nose, deep and beautifully complex. Pure aromas of black berries, violets, even a hint of peonies and spices waft from the glass. Hints of coffee and liquorice round off the picture. This wine can be enjoyed today, although further ageing for at least five years is recommended. Full-bodied, juicy and crisp on the palate, with a delicate yet relatively serious structure, the flavours confirm the bouquet. Long finish. A wine that is a real pleasure to drink. 17.5-17.75/20 (91-92/100).
