“An outstanding winemaker whom many in the Côte de Beaune should look up to as a role model.” It was with these very words that a young, talented winemaker from a prestigious appellation in the Côte de Beaune praised him when, in mid-October 2020, I told him I had visited Bruno Lorenzon (link) in Mercurey a few days earlier. A winegrower who indeed belongs to that elite who refuse to be swayed by any sense of urgency, but who take their time. An elite reinventing the soundest principles of viticulture, far removed from the so-called rules of consumerism. Yet an elite always in harmony with the desire to see the vines flourish, protected, undamaged by aggressive vineyard practices, at every stage of their life.
Nearly six years later, that impression held true when Lorenzon invited us to a masterclass on 12 March 2026, alongside some thirty other guests who were all perfectly attuned to his intelligence, sensitivity and impressive expertise.
…
Solus in Vertice
It all began with the vine. Just as people imagine they can influence the course of rivers (which explains a large proportion of the flooding), optimise milk production whilst maintaining quality – even in the face of the effects of global warming – and effectively combat fires without equipping themselves with the necessary resources (clearing scrub, Canadair aircraft, Airbus A400M, training in the use of backfires… ), the winegrower – often a victim of his basic training, even if it was at university level – believes in the use of herbicides and in the illusion that pruning is sufficient to care for his vines. Twenty-five years ago, the Delorme brothers were regarded as extremists, but fortunately the world of viticulture has moved on. In part, for the better–
Respecting the Vine
Bruno Lorenzon is clearly a pioneer when it comes to respecting his vines. He does not view them as mere tools of the trade but supports them with humility as they develop. On his 10.5-hectare domaine, he [and his father, Editor’s note] has not used any herbicides for over forty years; the vines are grown at high density – starting with 14’000 and up to 20,000 vines per hectare – and are not pruned. Bruno admits to being a high-density fan, and Olivier Lamy – about whom we have just published two articles – clearly won’t contradict him.
The Discipline of Non-Pruning
During his presentation on his working methods, he points out that if the vines die, it is precisely because they are being pruned; without pruning, they would live on, and the term ‘very old vines’ would regain its full meaning. He simply prunes out the side shoots, only six ones are left on each vine – the standard is usually between 20 and 25 –, this pruning is a process that helps to thin out the bunches, allow sunlight through and prevent diseases such as mildew or botrytis. It is painstaking work, naturally carried out by hand, as his vines – grown from mass selection – are treated like precious gems. Pruning does not harm the plant; carried out sparingly, this is clearly the work of a master craftsman. Further, Bruno emphasises his opposition to thinning, which he regards as anti-agronomic.
Growing From the Apex
Bruno Lorenzon therefore lets his vines grow, which they do from the apex. As he put it so clearly during the introduction to the masterclass, if you prevent vines from growing upwards, they will grow outwards. His vines therefore reach 2 metres in height, although they are pruned back to 1.75 metres. Vines deserve respect. Whilst some treated theirs up to 25 times in 2023 [breaking, to my knowledge, the previous record set in 2013 when they were treated up to 17 times, Editor’s note], Bruno carried out only three treatments.
Held in the Cold
The care doesn’t stop once the grapes are picked. The crates for six kilos of grapes – the domaine uses 3’500 ones – are placed straight into a refrigerated truck, where the whole clusters are held during 72 hours at low temperature before pressing even begins. It is a step that, on paper, sounds almost incidental – a matter of logistics rather than winemaking – but in practice it is anything but. Chilling the freshly picked grapes halts any spontaneous fermentation or oxidation before it can start, buying Lorenzon the time his methods demand without asking the fruit to pay for it.
Only once this cold, protective pause has done its work does the pressing begin – slow, gentle, and unhurried, sometimes stretching to four hours, closer in spirit to the traditional méthode champenoise than to anything resembling standard Burgundian practice. The logic is consistent with everything that precedes it: nothing here is rushed, nothing is left exposed to risk, and every stage exists solely to protect what the vine has already given. By the time fermentation begins, in temperature-controlled tanks, the grapes have lost nothing of what the equinox, the soil, and months of exacting labour worked to preserve.
The High Trellis
Lorenzon has been training his vines unusually high since 2005, maximising leaf exposure and, with it, photosynthesis – a choice that is entirely his own, arrived at independently rather than borrowed from any other producer. It happens to echo, in principle if not in origin, methods associated with figures such as Lalou Bize-Leroy – a coincidence of conviction rather than a case of inspiration. This choice, too, demands its own equipment: specialised trimming and canopy-management tools, often mounted on light straddle tractors reserved exclusively for this single task – one more machine, one more purpose, one more refusal to generalise.
This upward growth is fuelled largely by nitrogen, which the vine channels into extending its shoots and building the very canopy the high trellis demands. But that window does not stay open indefinitely. Bruno noted, during the masterclass, that this nitrogen-driven consumption comes to an end within roughly ten weeks – after which the vine’s priorities shift away from vegetative extension and toward ripening the fruit itself.
Once again, timing dictates the method: the canopy must be built while the nitrogen window remains open, and the vine allowed to stand down from vegetative growth precisely when the fruit needs it most.
…
The Tasting
The tasting accompanying this exceptional masterclass took place in two parts: the first during the presentation, which was scheduled to last an hour but ended up taking twice as long, and the second to round off the event. The first part took place in the wine cellar and was dedicated to the 2023 vintage, whilst the second, held in glorious weather, took place in the property’s courtyard. We are devoting a separate article to the 2023 vintage.
The tasting that brought the masterclass to a close took place outdoors in glorious weather, with temperatures offering a foretaste of what was to come in the months ahead. A buffet that was as generous as it was sumptuous, including a delicious beef cheek cooked for seven hours over two days, accompanied the four magnum bottles, we were tasked with identifying. I was the first guest to identify two ones representing the vintages 2017 and 2018. To begin with, Bruno reminded us that people often go to restaurants to enjoy a good glass of wine, and that wine is inseparable from exquisite food. We were therefore warmly invited to savour this very convivial moment of sharing. It was a great moment of conviviality, but I had to leave two hours later as I was expected at the ‘Passion Jura by Night’ trade fair, held at the Palais des Congrès in Beaune.
The four Wines
Mercurey 1er Cru Champs Martin 2017
Some claim that minerality cannot be detected. And they are not wrong. Yet the complexity, the aromatic structure and the breathtaking precision on the nose all point back to it. At nearly ten years old – and with Bruno Lorenzon stating that his wines can only begin to be appreciated after so many years – this Champs Martin captivates us and reveals the vintage through its refined style and its authentic signature. Notes of white peaches, toasted almonds, lemon, floral notes and white pepper characterise this bouquet, which still shows great promise. On the palate, it is straightforward, precise and racy; the acidity underpins the whole, minerality dominates, and the wine is concentrated and complex. Fortunate indeed are those who own a few bottles of this superb wine. 18-18.25/20 (93-94/100).
Mercurey Pièce 15 2014
One of the three truly great white vintages, alongside 2011 and 2017. A racy, profound, exceptionally precise and complex nose, without the slightest hint of age. One is captivated by the delicacy of this very fresh bouquet and its kaleidoscope of smoky, flinty, white floral, white pear, a hint of yellow stone fruit and citrus notes. The vintage’s freshness and vigour are also evident. Impressive, yet without being overpowering. On the palate, it takes on a different character, one of power, tension and depth. What minerality! And the whole is structured around a perfectly integrated and refreshing acidity. 18.5/20 (95/100).
Mercurey 1er Cru Carline Clos des Champs Martin 2020
The overall impression was confirmed: this is a wine of impressive concentration and power, depth and precision, freshness and complexity. The score above may seem very high, but I stand by it. There is just one caveat: you will need to be patient with this masterful wine before it proves itself worthy of it. Currently 18.5/20 (95/100).
Mercurey Pièce 13 2018
Yet another step up. The quest for perfection in a wine that is, nevertheless, relatively easy to identify thanks to its extra – albeit subtle – touch of acidity. Great promise for at least the next 15 years. Both on the nose and on the palate, this Pièce 13 is powerful, deep, concentrated, refined, fresh, complex and spicy; its dark fruit is generous and superbly interwoven with the acidity and delicate tannins. A truly great wine, to be enjoyed from now until around twenty years from now. 18.5-18.75/20 (95-96/100).
