Capturing Nebbiolo’s purest essence through the amphora
Serralunga d’Alba, April 2025 – In the landscape of Piedmontese viticulture, the search for the identity of Nebbiolo has led Enrico Rivetto (link) to explore new expressive approaches. Nebbiolo d’Alba Vigna Lirano (link) was born from a desire to explore the purity of the grape through the use of the amphora – a project that combines technical knowledge with a deep sensitivity,deeply rooted in the estate’s biodynamic philosophy and perfectly at home on the Lirano hill.
„Vigna Lirano came about partly out of curiosity, partly out of play. In several Italian regions— Friuli, Sicily, Abruzzo—long macerations in amphora have long been a tradition, so I started experimenting myself, especially considering Nebbiolo’s natural ability to age well,“ explains Enrico Rivetto. Beneath this curiosity lies a deeper provocation: the pursuit of Nebbiolo in its most essential form – stripped of external influences, and as unmediated as possible.
To achieve this, Rivetto turned to terracotta, one of the oldest materials used in winemaking. Its porous structure allows for gentle oxygenation without releasing any aromas. Extended skin contact enables the formation of refined tannin chains, lending complexity to the Nebbiolo. Considerable time was devoted to experimenting with different types of amphorae to identify the most suitable vessel—starting with traditional Tuscan terracotta jars, then moving on to 15–20 hectoliter Georgian Qvevri, selected for their excellent breathability, which enhances the wine’s evolution in contact with the skins.
„We’re also experimenting with local clay,“ Enrico adds. „Last year, with the help of a craftsman local artisan, we created our first amphora from Lirano clay, sourced from 50 meters underground during vineyard work. We’ve just started testing it, and we’ll see how it performs.“
Vigna Lirano
The Lirano hillside is a biodynamic garden in the Barolo area, nestled between the hills of Sinio and Serralunga d’Alba. It’s a complex ecosystem where vines coexist in harmony with 5 km of biodiversity corridors, 200 fruit trees, medicinal herbs, cereal fields, and around 1,000 tall trees and mixed hedges. Once submerged under the sea millions of years ago, Lirano is a magnetic hill with a unique microclimate. The soils, marked by Lequio formations, are rich in grey marl and yellow sand, which retain rainwater deep underground and support the vines’ balanced development.
At about 400 meters above sea level, with good ventilation and optimal sun exposure, the microclimate helps to produce wines with intense aromas and natural freshness. Lirano represents a new paradigm of viticulture, where biodynamic practices serve as tools to understand the hidden mechanisms that govern the relationship between agriculture and nature, with sustainability and biodiversity at the core of every action.
„Vigna Lirano is a truly representative vineyard,“ says Enrico. „For this Nebbiolo in amphora, we chose a specific plot of just over one hectare, located in the highest and most beautiful part of the hill.“
Nebbiolo d’Alba Vigna Lirano
For Vigna Lirano, Rivetto embraced ancestral winemaking techniques: long macerations and spontaneous fermentation in terracotta amphorae using native yeasts. This approach enhances the varietal’s purity and freshness, offering a truly distinctive profile.
Vinification takes place in terracotta, a neutral material that allows for gentle oxygenation—unlike stainless steel—yet preserves the varietal character of the grapes intact.
„There isn’t much to say about the vinification, because our goal is to intervene as little as possible,“ Enrico explains. “After manual harvest, the grapes are destemmed and crushed, then macerated for several months in amphorae. Once fermentation is complete, the amphora is sealed until spring. Around May, the wine is racked and transferred to cement vats for a few months of natural clarification—avoiding influences from other materials like wood. After bottling, the wine rests for at least six months before release.”
This method gives the wine a distinctive personality, revealing more pronounced vegetal notes compared to traditionally vinified Nebbiolos, where fruit typically takes center stage.
„It’s a wine I’d naturally recommend to a younger audience, but really it’s for anyone curious enough to challenge preconceived notions of what Nebbiolo should be. I’d pair it with anything—or nothing at all. It has the simplicity to match any dish, yet demands thoughtful contemplation to be appreciated on its own. If I had to describe it as a person, I’d say it’s genuinely provoking —in the best way: honest, unafraid to reveal its true self, without pretenses or filters,“ says Rivetto.
Even the label tells a provocative and personal story. „I started making this wine in 2014, but for two years it was rejected by the tasting commission because it didn’t meet the typical Nebbiolo profile. As a gut reaction, I decided to use a label my six-year-old daughter had drawn while trying to design the winery logo. It seemed like a cheeky way to represent a wine some said wasn’t even Nebbiolo—and that’s exactly why I chose it.“
About Rivetto
„I am Enrico Rivetto, a farmer, a basketball enthusiast and a free spirit. My home is Lirano, a biodynamic garden in the Barolo region, nestled between the hills of Sinio and Serralunga d’Alba. It’s a thriving ecosystem where vines flourish alongside 5 kilometers of natural corridors, 200 fruit trees, medicinal herbs, grains, and around 1,000 tall trees and mixed hedges. Once submerged under the sea millions of years ago, Lirano is now a complex agricultural organism, offering visitors a chance to personally experience the beauty and harmony of nature—captured in every bottle of wine we make.A magnetic hill with a unique microclimate: the soils here, part of the Lequio Formation, are rich in grey marl and yellow sand, which retain rainwater deep underground, helping the vines grow in balance. At an altitude of about 400 meters above sea level, along with steady breezes and ideal sun exposure, this area produces wines with vibrant aromas and natural freshness. Monoculture has no place in Lirano: it’s a new approach to viticulture, where biodynamic farming is just one of the tools we use to explore the deeper connections between agriculture and nature. Here, sustainability and biodiversity are central to everything we do.The estate is surrounded by seven hectares of ancient woodlands and a small pond that collects rainwater, a dedicated composting area, and a space for our donkeys. It’s a true wildlife sanctuary, featuring a four-kilometer trail that runs through the vineyards and the forest, with beehives placed along the way. These bees contribute to the complexity of fermentations by facilitating the exchange of microorganisms. This biodynamic approach also extends to Briccolina in Serralunga d’Alba, my most cherished cru, which has been transformed into a vineyard-garden where vines grow alongside flowers and trees, creating a natural habitat for butterflies and birds.“
