Nothing quite compares to the magic of a well-aged Bordeaux. But not all vintages are created equal and the journey to the pinnacle varies greatly, influenced by nature and winemaking decisions, making regular vintage reassessments essential. Our circle of wine enthusiasts has established a tradition of revisiting Bordeaux vintages at 10 and 20 years, courtesy of a collector in Switzerland with an enviable cellar. This year, we delved into the 2004 vintage. We tasted 33 red wines from various appellations. Bottles were not decanted, tasted, and scored blind.
A mediocre vintage at best
2004 is known for its challenges, with the main culprit being heavy rains in August that diluted the large crop, followed by rains in October that led some growers to harvest some unripe Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. It’s no secret that 2004 is not a particularly strong vintage, and this tasting confirmed that. While it has produced many enjoyable wines, they generally lack the depth and elegance, the vibrant fruit core, found in superior vintages. The (few) best of this year, on the other hand, hark back to a more classic, traditional style, characterized by freshness and indeed bright fruit notes. Unfortunately, the best wine in our tasting (95pt.) is also the most expensive, a complex and as usually singular Le Pin, with a charming Vieux Château Certan, a surprising d’Issan and Clos l’Eglise, and an elegant Lafite sharing second place (all rated 18.25/20 (94/100).). Conversely, the less successful 2004s often suffer from a lack of fruit and underripe tannins, resulting in a rather astringent and dry experience.
